Thursday, 3 December 2015

1950's


Women’s roles were greatly changed in the 1950s, with the men coming back from war and taking their jobs back. Women had, during World War II, taken men’s jobs while they had been away at war. After the war, many women wanted to keep their jobs. Many of them became wives and mothers as the men came back from the war.  In 1957, 70% of working women held clerical positions, assembly lines or service jobs. 12 % held a profession and 6% held management positions.
http://1950s.weebly.com/womens-roles.html


Maryln Monroe
http://img2.timeinc.net/people/i/2009/specials/archive35/beauties/marilyn-monroe.jpg

Following from the 1940s wartime austerity , the 1950s was a time of growth and prosperity. Many economies around the world blossomed and grew. Consumers had more spending money available and the end of rationing opened up the way for new products. New colours and makeup products appeared, and the luxury cosmetics market took off.

After the losses during the war, there was a shortage of men – possibly encouraging women to “make the most of themselves” in order to snag a husband. Thanks to more labour-saving devices on the market, women had more time to themselves and wearing makeup was simply part of a woman’s routine and an essential part of being feminine

Television broadcasts had resumed in the UK after total suspension during WWII, and by the early 1950s most of the country could now pick up a TV signal, thanks to a post-war effort to increase signal coverage. This, along with Queen Elizabeth’s coronation in 1953, resulted in a sharp increase in TV ownership during the 1950s. Movie stars continued with their strong influence on the masses. Leading ladies like Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Doris Day and Elizabeth Taylor had an enormous impact on styles, as did Betty Grable and swimmer Esther Williams – two of the biggest box office draws of the 1950s.


 

The age of makeup entered its golden age in the 1950’s. For the first time, unknown models began to rival the big Hollywood names in becoming the ‘face’ of makeup brands. In 1949-50 Hazel Bishop unveiled to much excitement the first non-smear lipstick. Revlon followed this with their own by own non-smear lipstick’ in 1953. The ruling shades were pastels in the 1950s and pink lipstick replaced the reds for a time as the lip color of choice – especially amongst younger women. Audrey Hepburn once declared that she” believed in pink!”
 
 
Lip colours

 

A really glamorous decade for women’s makeup. Creams were the in thing in foundations and shadows. A much heavier makeup look for the face was in order with liquid foundations and loose powder appearing on dressing tables again. It was the era of the ‘mask effect’.  The eyeshadow look of this decade was much more minimal than in previous decades, eye-shadows now containing shimmer and a huge palette of colors. Revlon produced ‘eye-shadow palettes’ with two or three shades to create a specific look. A soft but definite eye line and eyebrows a slightly darker shade than the natural.



 
Grace Kelly
Max Factor was still the leader in invention and made products women wanted to use, inspired by the actresses who also wore Max Factor off screen. In 1953, the first all-in-one base and powder, Creme Puff, is introduced by Max Factor. In 1954, they launch the first retail concealer, a flesh-coloured stick called Erace.
In 1952, Boots relaunched its No. 7 range, which had almost disappeared during the war. The black and gold packaging was influenced by Hollywood. Avon came calling for the first time after cosmetic reps were introduced to call round at people’s homes to demonstrate and sell the makeup.
Popular eyeshadows
http://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/1950s-eyeshadow-colours.jpghttp://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/1950s-eyeshadow-colours.jpg
 
 
The 1950s saw the emergence of tube mascara with a wand – Helena Rubinstein and Max Factor both lay claim to being the creator of the new wand. Either way, mascara was every woman’s favourite. Block mascara and cream mascara in a tube were still used and applied with a little brush. Block mascara needed activating with water, but most women would simply spit onto the block, mix to create a liquid paste and apply. Mascara was mainly applied to the top lashes only. It came in various colours, from the standard black, to brown, navy blue, emerald green and purple.
 
Moodboard





1950’s look – 28/9/15
Products used:



o   Moisturiser
o   Concealer
o   Foundation
o   Powder
o   Highlighter
o   Eyeshadow
o   Eyeliner
o   Lip liner
o   Lipstick
o   Eyebrow filler
o   Eye pencil
o   mascara



 

Today we picked a decade from the 1900’s onwards and created a design that was relevant to that period. I decided to pick the 1950’s for this look because I love the makeup, its classy and very feminine. I also chose this because of the inspirational and iconic people such as Marilyn Monroe who was a symbolic figure of the 50’s.

 

To start, I cleansed and moisturised my models skin, prepping it for the application of the makeup. I began by concealing the imperfections and dark areas on the face to get the flawless complexion that was so memorialised in the 50’s. I then applied foundation all over the face matching the natural skin colour and set it with powder so it wouldn’t wear off. I added a small hint of contour very lightly on the cheeks as it wasn’t a big thing in the 50’s but I felt it suited my look well.

 

I then began with the eye makeup. I didn’t want to do the ‘Marilyn’ look with the white eyeshadow as I wanted a modern twist on the look so I decided to do a smokey brown look. Using a dark brown in the crease I blended it out to give it the smokey look, then I used a lighter shade on the lid. I then used a black eyeliner marker to give the eye the iconic flicks of the 50’s that was symbolic to this era. I then finished the eyes with mascara on the eyelashes.

 

 

Face chart-1950s
I then moved onto the eyebrows. Eyebrows in the 50’s were thickened and darkened with a sharp arch in the centre, so I used a dark brown colour to fill them in. I then attended to the lips. I applied a red lip liner along the lip line and filled them in with a red lipstick. From researching this era, I found that red lipstick was a very popular colour in the 1950’s which is why I choose to use it because it linked in with the era.

 

Another trait that was very recognizable for the 50’s was the beauty mark. Marilyn started off the trend with her beauty spot, and it was forever remembered as being one of the main makeup traits for the 50’s. So of course, I used a brown eye pencil to recreate the beauty mark.

 

I feel like my 1950’s look was very successful and I am very pleased with how it turned out. If I were to do this look again however, I would like to give the white eye shadow a try, like the traditional Marilyn look instead of recreating it with a modern twist. I loved this look and I thought it looked lovely on the model. Overall I am very pleased with the look I created. If I were to do this for tv, I would make sure to have full coverage with foundation as the cameras would pick up any blemishes or imperfections.

1950's look



 

 
19/10/15- 1950’s hair roll
 
Today in lesson, we learnt how to complete a 1950’s victory roll look. To carry out this look, I used a comb and hair pins. I began by sectioning the hair into three sections, from the middle to behind the ears on both sides, then the back section. I had to think of the shape I wanted the rolls to be in and decided to have two on either side of the head, others in the class choose to do a side parting and have one big roll across the front which looked very nice and fitted the era, however I did prefer the two rolls on either side.
 
I firstly backcombed the hair getting it some volume so it wasn’t flat to the head, then I used a brush to flatted on the top so it didn’t look messy or untidy. I then used my comb and my fingers to get the shape of the roll, then rolled the hair into a tight loop and pinned it with grips. I had to be careful on where I put the grips because I had to make sure they weren’t on show, so they must be placed discreetly in the hair. To set the hair I used hairspray so it wouldn’t become loose. I then repeated this for the other side.
 
For the back section of the hair, I rolled it underneath and pinned it so it created a short bob look. I loved this look and thought it was perfect for the era, if I where to work on a TV show like ‘The Hour’ that was based in the 50’s, I would definitely use this style, with lots of pins and grips and set it with hairspray to keep it in place for longer.
 
1950's roll

 

 

 

 

Thursday, 12 November 2015

1940's


inspiration
 
 
Due to the second world war, women took over many of the male’s jobs in factories and on the land, whilst the men were at war. For this reason, it was popular for make up to be fuss-free and ‘on the go’ compacts were popular because of this, and the 1940s saw the first powder compacts and ‘cake mascara’ compacts. As lipsticks were often matte, ladies often added Vaseline to their lipstick application to achieve the lustrous shiny lips of the on-screen sirens of the decade, such as actress Rita Hayworth


 
traditional lip colours


The 1940s has a look all to its own. Confident up-do hairstyles, redder than red lipsticks and nails and prominent arched eyebrows. Lipsticks in the 1940s were red all the way and while there were now countless shades to choose from, the final objective of any young lady in the 1940s was prominent red lips. Replacing the thin understated lip contours of the 1930s was a deep luscious full mouth.

Despite war rationing, women began using makeup from the teens onwards. Just twenty years before – this would have been unthinkable. Women were encouraged to keep buying lipstick and to send letters to the front covered in ‘lipstick kisses’ to boost the moral of the soldiers.”

Declaring “makeup to be  necessary and vital” to the US war effort. So happy days for American glamour.  However women were encouraged to ‘bulk buy’ in case of shortages. Developing new makeup products though were forbidden under the WPB limitations. Makeup was not rationed in the UK but was extremely scarce -so women had to make do sometimes with homemade efforts. One exception to the ‘new cosmetics ban’ was in the USA.  Elizabeth Arden was asked to create a makeup kit for the Marine Corps Women’s Reserve. She brought out a rang of lipsticks like Victory Red and Montezuma Red lipsticks which matched the red shade of the scarf, arm insignia and hat cords on their uniforms.


 

Rationing in the UK meant many everyday items were hard to get. But rather than go without, women got creative. Makeup substitutes included burnt cork for mascara, cochineal or beetroot juice for lipstick, bi-carbonate of soda for deodorant and gravy browning for leg tint were just some of the ways British women kept up appearances.

Lipstick was seen as “good for the morale of the nation” both in Britain and the USA. Women were applauded for the use of lipstick (seen as keeping femininity while carrying out men’s work) and adverts encouraged women to wear lipstick. In the United States, lipstick survived rationing after women protested the War Production Board’s plan to ration it. The Brits were not so lucky – lipstick was in short supply and very precious! Petroleum jelly was used to add a sheen, as well as protect lips.

Rationing didn’t end as soon as the war finished and, for some items, continued until 1954 in Britain. Things slowly but surely came back into regular circulation after the war and more makeup products started to reach the shelves, eagerly bought by women whenever possible.

 

lip shape
http://www.return2style.de/swingstyle/makeup/40amimup.html



Joan Crawford’s lipstick shape, known as “the smear” or Hunter’s Bow, was created by Max Factor for Joan in the 1930s and was much copied into the 1940s. Going to the pictures was a popular way to spend an evening and the glamour of the movie stars was admired and copied by women everywhere.

The overall makeup look of the 1940s was natural, from pale to slightly tanned skin tones, penciled in brows, a lashing of mascara and a rosy glow to the cheeks, topped off with a splash of red lipstick glamour. Whatever a woman’s background or class, they always made an effort to look groomed with what little they had. Lipsticks were also really staining meaning a little lipstick lasted a long time – perfect for wartime skimping. It wasn’t just the lipstick colour, but the shape of the lips that defines the 1940s. After the dinky lips of the 1930s, the fashionable forties lip shape was the Hunter’s Bow – it was deep, rounded and full, influenced by the stars of the screen. After the war, new lipstick colours started to come in, including lighter colours. Lip pencils started to make their mark in the late 1940s, simply used to create a lip line which was then filled in with lipstick.
lip colours
 

Wartime meant eye shadows were hard to come by, so homemade solutions were found. For example, to create a soft and smoky eye shadow, women could burn a candle under a saucer, producing a sooty residue which could then be mixed with petroleum jelly. After the war, more coloured eye shadows started to be seen, especially blues and greens. Eye liner started to be worn on the upper eyelids in the late 1940s
http://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-1940s-makeup/

 

iconic eye makeup
http://www.return2style.de/swingstyle/makeup/40amimup.html


 moodboard




If I were to do a look for this for TV or film, I would make sure to focus on the eyebrows, lips and hair as I think they are the most iconic factors of this makeup look 

1930's!


With the close of the 1920s came the crash of the stock market (October 1929) and with that came an expedited change in attitude about hair and makeup. Gone were the days of the rebellious flapper, replaced instead by a softer more feminine look. A softer, more feminine style replaced the boyish, flapper look of the twenties. The Great Depression ushered in a philosophy of thrift and admonished the reckless spending associated with the roaring 20s.

Makeup was less severe and hairstyles were too. Soft feminine curls replaced the sharp boyish flapper look. The stress of the depression was often alleviated, if not temporarily, by escape into a dark movie theatre where the glamorous Hollywood movie star worked her magic on defining fashion even further. The stylish ’30s was the decade of Art Deco and Hollywood celebrities, with actresses such as Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo starring on the silver screens. Just look at the images of Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Myrna Loy, Ginger Rogers and Mae West to get an understanding of what women found fashionable during this era.

 


inspiring makeup
http://dazzlingal.com/2011/12/05/dazzlin-makeup-through-the-years-1930s/


Gone was the coquettish girl of the late Victorian era, to a more independent woman


1930s iconic look
 
One clear thing all women shared was the pencil thin eyebrow. The heavy kohl eye-shadows of the 1920s vamp made way for newer and lighter shades. Cream eye-shadows began to appear from the big cosmetic names like Max factor who also launched the decade with his Lip Gloss and later in 1937 – Pancake water soluble makeup. Helena Rubinstein launched the first commercial water-proof mascara in 1939. Lipstick sales went through the roof and there wasn’t a magazine on a stall that didn’t have a pouting face staring back – advertising the lipsticks of names like Coty, Tangee, and Max Factor. The British Daily Mail” reported in 1931 that 1,500 lipsticks were being sold to women for every 1 being sold in 1921! Mascara was now in every girl’s makeup kit – a cake or bar with a brush to apply
 
 

inspiration



Adopted from theatrical makeup sticks, the eyeliner pencil to some extent took over from the heavy kohl look of the 1920s. Now women began to contour the eye, tracing a triangle effect from the tear duct out to and beyond the natural edge of the eye – thus widening an adding further feminine emphasis to the face. The lips lost the rosebud effect of the previous decade and adopted a thinner line, but now with a host of color palettes to choose from. Popular lipstick colors included dark reds, maroons and raspberry tones.

Hollywood influenced a more refined and glamorous look, with pale ivory foundations. Eye-shadows now had expanded to a palette of colors – particular alluring pinks and shimmering greens.

http://glamourdaze.com/history-of-makeup/1930s
moodboard
 

Tin man 1939 – 23/10/15
Products used:

o   Moisturiser
o   Concealer
o   Foundation
o   Eyeshadow
o   Glitter
o   Eyeliner
o   Lip gloss

 

Today in class we were told to be creative with a character from a movie, and not to copy an original design. I decided to think out of the box to do a 1930’s film, The Wizard Of Oz. Instead of trying to do an easy makeup like Dorothy, I decided to try to make my own creation of the tin man. My look would use a lot of silver!

 

I started off with the usual routine of cleansing and moisturising the skin prepping it for the makeup. I didn’t want to paint the face silver like the original character because there would be nowhere else to go with it, so I decided to use a normal foundation base that matched my models skin colour. I then tried to contour the cheeks with a silver eyeshadow, but it wasn’t showing up on the skin very well, however it did create a nice shadow effect. I then decided to add glitter on top to create a much stronger contour. So I used it along the cheeks, on the forehead and along the nose, just like how you would do a modern contour as I wanted some modern factors in my design.

 

For the eye brows, I was going to block them out to paint them on with a dark silver paint, but I felt it would take up too much of the time and it could mess the rest of the look, so I decided to just add a bit of glitter to them to give them the ‘tin man’ look instead of having them like an everyday look, however they are still a modern shape.

 

For the eyes, I decided to go for a black smokey eye, using a black eye shadow on the crease and blending it out. I then added a silver sparkle eyeshadow to the lid and sparkles on the tear ducts, keeping with the tin man theme. I then used a black eyeliner marker to create a perfect winged eyeliner, as I wanted to keep it quite pretty, because it was on a female model so I felt it needed to have feminine features. I then finished the eyes with mascara on the top and bottom eyelashes to make the eyes stand out more. If this was for TV, I would add fake eyelashes to complete the look as I think they would make it complete

 

I then moved onto the lips. I tried to give the lips a faint silver sparkle tone, nothing too bold but it was very hard to see the light silver colour, so I had to make them quite dark so it would be noticeable in the camera for the picture. I added a gloss over the top so it would appear wet and different from the rest of the face.

 

Overall I felt my look was very different and it was fun to do! I thought I did well by thinking out of the box, but if I were to do a professional look, I would not use this design, or I would take elements of it. I felt it was a bit too silver, but then it was meant to be a recreation of the Tin Man, who is painted all silver! If I were to do this for a film or tv, I would make sure it was a much stronger colour of silver and I would make sure to do everything more precise. I would also then add eyelashes and set the look with a setting spray so it lasted for filming. I would use a much stronger silver from a professional brand, such as Kryloan or Mac as their products are made for professional use

tin man look
 

1920's!

The 1920’s was a time for good girls to be bad…at least at night! It was the era of the flapper girls

1920s iconic makeup looks

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY7n13VuBChNeFpl_N1cyl-Vf2-Uu_O9LxE7DhuOxRyHnGx2GcRxZCI2s273SqxBEQFrzbWnzKV53oUwRUjXQirzZyG4oUvsBRHD8K8Yk81250fHgSLchBMj-ln6DxoIU7y4c-2LqhLf9Y/s1600/Fotor052918189.jpg
 
Makeup played a huge part in helping women recover from the horrors of the war, and assert their new sense of feminine power. Helena Rubinstein famously said  ‘ If you can show me a woman who doesn’t want to look young and beautiful – well, I’m afraid she isn’t in her right mind. Women all want it – and we admit that they do!’

Hollywood stars like Clara Bow made the cupids bow lip – a self-shaping lipstick developed by Helena Rubinstein – popular and the image of the 1920s woman with her bow lips and dark eyes peering out from under her cloche hat has defined the look to this day. Shaping the mouth became a major pastime for women, with metal lip tracers being sold to help achieve the perfect pout. The defining look was a youthful glow to contrast the ivory pale skin, with creams, rouge papers and various liquids being sold.


 

 


 
At first, beauty products were not about changing one’s look but about enhancing natural beauty. Face creams, lotions, and powders all helped even out skin tone. Getting a “facial” at a “beauty salon” was unheard of in 1917 but by 1929 the beautician industry had 18,000 beauty parlors in America. The industry of women’s beauty services had exploded.

As the decade progressed the quality of makeup improved. The number of products went from a few dozen to 450 by 1924. By the end of the twenties there were 1300 brands and shades of face powder, 350 rouges, and a hundred red lipsticks. It was a 52-million-dollar industry
 

inspiring 1920s makeup
http://vintagemakeupguide.com/wp-content/gallery/1920s-flapper-makeup-style/1920s-flapper-makeup.jpg
 

For the eyes, the look many aspired to was the dramatic appearance of Clara Bow’s dark, smudged kohl rims. Kohl was also used for eye-shadow, although cream eye-shadow was available later in the decade. Dark grays were the favorite colors, but many women chose shades that matched their eye color.

Eye brows were shaped thin and curved with a slight downward point at the inner end. The thickness of the eye was even all around. Eyeliner, in pencil form was used on the eye brow


Due to World War I, there was a higher percentage of women than men so makeup was seen as a way to emphasize beauty and attract guys.

20's women would cut their hair short,, disregarding the Victorian belief that hair was the 'crowning glory'. the Bob was the hairstyle of the centaury. It represented freedom, rights, opportunities, and options for women. Coco Chanel (1883-1871) popularised the look. Some women who worked with the public e.g. teachers, got fired from their jobs for having short hair because it was frowned upon.

Finger waves were a big look in the 20's, which most people would automatically associate with this genre. Wigs where also a big thing, however they where made to look natural and discrete. A common accessory in the 20's was the browband- which was a thin material around the forehead.

inspiration
https://vintagehandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/d7aa6b8e3edca4296636864fc1afac96.jpg

 moodboard

 
 
From researching the 1920's, I decided to create my own design of the 1920s makeup.
 
facechart

Products used:


o   Moisturiser
o   Concealer
o   Foundation
o   Translucent powder
o   Highlighter
o   Eyeshadows
o   Lip liner
o   Lip stick
o   Blusher


 

In today’s lesson, we all got to choose a period look to practise, I choose the 1920’s as I found this look very captivating and creative. The 1920’s was the time where the girls are rebelled and starting living a bit wilder. They started experimented with their hair and makeup, using dark and bold colours. We were told to try and link the look with a character of a film of that time, so I chose Daisy from The Great Gatsby as that was set in the 20’s.

 

I started off with cleanings and moisturising the skin prepping it for the makeup. For this look, I was going for a deep brown/black smokey eye so I decided to begin with the eyes in case any of the pigments fall onto the skin as black can be very messy to work with. I chose to do this so I wouldn’t have to redo the whole face makeup again if there was any fallen eyeshadow as it would waste too much time. It is much easier and quicker to clean up a fresh face from the black colour.

 

I used a very light nude colour as my base firstly, then gradually built a black colour In the crease and blended it out. I then used a natural colour on the lid so it wasn’t too over powering, and also because the character Daisy that I was linking my design too, didn’t have all black eyes like most 1920’s women. The women in the 20’s would have used products like charcoal to achieve the dark eyes, this is why I chose the colours I did. They also wouldn’t have blended the eyes out, so this is a modern adaption to the iconic look of the 20’s makeup.

 

After the eyes, I then moved onto the face. I concealed any blemishes to begin with to give her a flawless look. The women in the 20’s had pale skin, so if I were to have had a darker skinned model, I would have to had tried to whiten out the skin, but seeing as my model was quite pale, I didn’t have to do this. I matched her foundation to her skin and used translucent powered to then set the liquid. I then applied a deep blush onto the cheeks as that was a big then in the 20’s. They would have pinched their cheeks during the day to keep the rosiness prominent.

 

Eyebrows in the 20’s was a big thing! They only started to pluck their eyebrows and most women probably didn’t know how to do it, so they were relatively thin and very dark, nearly a black colour! However Daisy from The Great Gatsby’s eyebrows where not that dark, but had that distinctive shape that was related to the 20’s, so taking both into consideration, I chose to do the eyebrows a dark brown colour, not black because I felt it would take the overall look away. The eyebrows were very rounded, there wasn’t much shape to them in the 20’s.

 

After the eyebrows, I then began on the lips. I used a dark red lip pencil to outline the lips and made sure the cupids bow was emphasized as that was one of the many iconic traits of this century. I then filled the lips in with red lipstick. I then highlighted the high points on the face – cheek bones, nose, eyebrows and the top of the lip, so they stood out in the photos.

 

I believe my overall look turned out well and suited my model. I was pleased with the finishing look but if I was to do it again, I would spend more time on the eyes getting them perfect and I would use a darker colour to make them really stand out. I felt the red lipstick was a perfect colour and suited the look well. If I where to do this on the set of the Great Gatsby, I would use a much darker eye colour and heavier face makeup foundation to make it suitable for tv and film lighting and hd cameras, and I would use setting spray to hold the makeup in place

1920's- great catsby look