Makeup played a huge part in helping women recover
from the horrors of the war, and assert their new sense of feminine power. Helena
Rubinstein famously said ‘ If you can show me a woman who
doesn’t want to look young and beautiful – well, I’m afraid she isn’t in her
right mind. Women all want it – and we admit that they do!’
Hollywood stars like Clara Bow
made the cupids bow lip – a self-shaping lipstick developed by Helena
Rubinstein – popular and the image of the 1920s woman with her bow lips and
dark eyes peering out from under her cloche hat has defined the look to this
day. Shaping the mouth became a major pastime for women, with metal lip tracers
being sold to help achieve the perfect pout. The defining look was a youthful
glow to contrast the ivory pale skin, with creams, rouge papers and various
liquids being sold.
At first, beauty products were not
about changing one’s look but about enhancing natural beauty. Face creams,
lotions, and powders all helped even out skin tone. Getting a “facial” at a
“beauty salon” was unheard of in 1917 but by 1929 the beautician industry had
18,000 beauty parlors in America. The industry of women’s beauty services had
exploded.
As the decade
progressed the quality of makeup improved. The number of products went from a few
dozen to 450 by 1924. By the end of the twenties there were 1300 brands and
shades of face powder, 350 rouges, and a hundred red lipsticks. It was a 52-million-dollar
industry
 inspiring 1920s makeup |
| http://vintagemakeupguide.com/wp-content/gallery/1920s-flapper-makeup-style/1920s-flapper-makeup.jpg |
For the eyes, the look
many aspired to was the dramatic appearance of Clara Bow’s dark, smudged kohl
rims. Kohl was also used for eye-shadow, although cream eye-shadow was
available later in the decade. Dark grays were the favorite colors, but many
women chose shades that matched their eye color.
Eye brows were shaped thin and curved with a slight downward point at the inner
end. The thickness of the eye was even all around. Eyeliner, in pencil form was
used on the eye brow
 inspiration |
https://vintagehandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/d7aa6b8e3edca4296636864fc1afac96.jpg
moodboard
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From researching the 1920's, I decided to create my own design of the 1920s makeup.
facechart
Products used:
o
Moisturiser
o
Concealer
o
Foundation
o
Translucent powder
o
Highlighter
o
Eyeshadows
o
Lip liner
o
Lip stick
o
Blusher
In today’s lesson, we all got to choose a period look to practise, I
choose the 1920’s as I found this look very captivating and creative. The
1920’s was the time where the girls are rebelled and starting living a bit
wilder. They started experimented with their hair and makeup, using dark and
bold colours. We were told to try and link the look with a character of a film
of that time, so I chose Daisy from The Great Gatsby as that was set in the
20’s.
I started off with cleanings and moisturising the skin prepping it for
the makeup. For this look, I was going for a deep brown/black smokey eye so I
decided to begin with the eyes in case any of the pigments fall onto the skin
as black can be very messy to work with. I chose to do this so I wouldn’t have
to redo the whole face makeup again if there was any fallen eyeshadow as it
would waste too much time. It is much easier and quicker to clean up a fresh
face from the black colour.
I used a very light nude colour as my base firstly, then gradually
built a black colour In the crease and blended it out. I then used a natural
colour on the lid so it wasn’t too over powering, and also because the
character Daisy that I was linking my design too, didn’t have all black eyes
like most 1920’s women. The women in the 20’s would have used products like
charcoal to achieve the dark eyes, this is why I chose the colours I did. They also wouldn’t have blended the eyes
out, so this is a modern adaption to the iconic look of the 20’s makeup.
After the eyes, I
then moved onto the face. I concealed any blemishes to begin with to give her a
flawless look. The women in the 20’s had pale skin, so if I were to have had a
darker skinned model, I would have to had tried to whiten out the skin, but
seeing as my model was quite pale, I didn’t have to do this. I matched her
foundation to her skin and used translucent powered to then set the liquid. I
then applied a deep blush onto the cheeks as that was a big then in the 20’s.
They would have pinched their cheeks during the day to keep the rosiness
prominent.
Eyebrows in the
20’s was a big thing! They only started to pluck their eyebrows and most women
probably didn’t know how to do it, so they were relatively thin and very dark,
nearly a black colour! However Daisy from The Great Gatsby’s eyebrows where not
that dark, but had that distinctive shape that was related to the 20’s, so
taking both into consideration, I chose to do the eyebrows a dark brown colour,
not black because I felt it would take the overall look away. The eyebrows were
very rounded, there wasn’t much shape to them in the 20’s.
After the
eyebrows, I then began on the lips. I used a dark red lip pencil to outline the
lips and made sure the cupids bow was emphasized as that was one of the many
iconic traits of this century. I then filled the lips in with red lipstick. I
then highlighted the high points on the face – cheek bones, nose, eyebrows and
the top of the lip, so they stood out in the photos.
I believe my
overall look turned out well and suited my model. I was pleased with the
finishing look but if I was to do it again, I would spend more time on the eyes
getting them perfect and I would use a darker colour to make them really stand
out. I felt the red lipstick was a perfect colour and suited the look well. If I where to do this on the set of the Great Gatsby, I would use a much darker eye colour and heavier face makeup foundation to make it suitable for tv and film lighting and hd cameras, and I would use setting spray to hold the makeup in place
1920's- great catsby look
Excellent article. Very interesting to read. I really love to read such a nice article. Thanks! keep rocking.
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